Bay Leaf (Chinese vegetarian)

• Restaurant website
• Location: Hawthorne district (roughly)
• Price for dinner for two: About $28

Here’s the thing about vegetarian restaurants: They’re either exquisite, or they forcibly remind us why grass clippings belong in lawn mowers.

Bay Leaf edges a wee bit closer to the latter than the former, and that’s a shame, because it’s also one of the prettiest Chinese restaurants I’ve encountered in a long time. The surroundings are tasteful and immaculate, the people are friendly, the teas are diverse and tasty (although Typhoon beats them on variety) and the food is wonderfully presented.

But Bay Leaf’s offerings were a feast for the eyes, not the stomach: Most dishes were far too bland. Robyn and I started with an order of lettuce wraps, one of my favorite can’t-go-wrongs. It looked lovely, but pretty much tasted like stewed celery with a little soy sauce.

We chose vegetarian mu shu and a mushroom dish called Satay Lion’s Mane for our entrees, with steamed brown rice. The rice was nutty and fresh, possibly just a tad undercooked but certainly eatable. Alas, the vegetarian mu shu repeated the mistake of the lettuce wraps; it was nicely presented but bland as all get-out, with the only real taste notes coming from the plum sauce.

The Satay Lion’s Mane wasn’t as bland, but that wasn’t saying much. The lion’s mane mushrooms were limp and slightly off, with a slight alkali tang that didn’t pair well with the over-soyed satay.

Robyn had a bit of a cold and ordered Chrysanthemum Flower tea for its medicinal properties. I ordered plum green tea, which was delicious and is supposed to stimulate the appetite. I finished the pot but left most of the meal; even though the portions were on the skimpy side we didn’t finish what we had.

We left in search of something a bit more substantial than usual for dessert (and we found it, but that’s another story…).

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